It is now Day Two of my trip aboard Amtrak’s Empire Builder from Seattle to Chicago.
The first day was quite pleasant. The trip was uneventful and though the weather was cold, we had clear skies most of the day and there was much less snow on the ground than I expected, given the extensive reporting about winter storm Fern that was pelting much of the central U.S.
Another surprising aspect was the number of solo travelers – like me – who just wanted a getaway that would allow them to decompress. Without the stress of air travel or the rigors of driving one’s self, train travel – especially in a private compartment – filled the bill nicely. Apart from remote work which is constrained by limited internet connectivity, there’s not much to do except eat, drink, socialize, and enjoy the passing tableau.
Unless you’re like two 30-something marathoners who jumped off the train during a 35-minute fresh-air stop in Spokane, Washington – after midnight! -- and hit not one but two bars. They told me they were determined to get a taste of the town and talk to folks to get a little “local flavor” before making it back on board. They gambled and won because, like cruise ships, the train won’t wait if you’re not back on time.
The passenger complement was as varied as our society in general, from the young runners to another Boomer who had just embarked on a new career as an attorney to head-bangers to aging hippies to members of The Greatest Generation who were determined to squeeze in “one more trip before we have to give up traveling.” I can’t imagine ever giving up traveling, but maybe I’ll be there one day.
It was also enjoyable to see how communal dining straddled what otherwise might have been barriers between people of different social strata. Passengers who arrived in the dining car were shown to the next empty seat, which was often at a table already occupied by another guest or two. That’s how I met the marathoners; a photographer from Oregon; a single mom who rents out a mobile bar for private parties; and a retired couple from Ferndale, Washington who were going to spend two weeks with family, attend a grandson's wrestling matches, then head off on a two-week Caribbean cruise before returning for another week with family.
The first day was quite pleasant. The trip was uneventful and though the weather was cold, we had clear skies most of the day and there was much less snow on the ground than I expected, given the extensive reporting about winter storm Fern that was pelting much of the central U.S.
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| Winter Storm (Photo credit: YouTube/WION) |
One of the surprising aspects of this trip was how smooth the ride was. Just a gentle swaying of the car. No click-clacking of the wheels unless we were rolling over a track transition. That is primarily because most modern U.S. train tracks are welded to form "continuous welded rail" or CWR, which are long, seamless stretches of track that reduce maintenance and allow for higher speeds.
Another surprising aspect was the number of solo travelers – like me – who just wanted a getaway that would allow them to decompress. Without the stress of air travel or the rigors of driving one’s self, train travel – especially in a private compartment – filled the bill nicely. Apart from remote work which is constrained by limited internet connectivity, there’s not much to do except eat, drink, socialize, and enjoy the passing tableau.
Unless you’re like two 30-something marathoners who jumped off the train during a 35-minute fresh-air stop in Spokane, Washington – after midnight! -- and hit not one but two bars. They told me they were determined to get a taste of the town and talk to folks to get a little “local flavor” before making it back on board. They gambled and won because, like cruise ships, the train won’t wait if you’re not back on time.
The passenger complement was as varied as our society in general, from the young runners to another Boomer who had just embarked on a new career as an attorney to head-bangers to aging hippies to members of The Greatest Generation who were determined to squeeze in “one more trip before we have to give up traveling.” I can’t imagine ever giving up traveling, but maybe I’ll be there one day.
It was also enjoyable to see how communal dining straddled what otherwise might have been barriers between people of different social strata. Passengers who arrived in the dining car were shown to the next empty seat, which was often at a table already occupied by another guest or two. That’s how I met the marathoners; a photographer from Oregon; a single mom who rents out a mobile bar for private parties; and a retired couple from Ferndale, Washington who were going to spend two weeks with family, attend a grandson's wrestling matches, then head off on a two-week Caribbean cruise before returning for another week with family.
Most everyone seemed happy to engage in conversation with fellow passengers, and to show their appreciation to our dining car attendant through tips offered either at the end of each meal or, as he told me often happens, after the last meal of any given trip. Sleeping car attendants like Evan were also occasionally on the receiving end of gratuities.
During this second day of the journey, we experienced several short delays to allow freight trains to pass in the opposite direction. Amtrak leases space from other rail companies for approximately 97 percent of its route miles and trains from the host company have priority. As a result, delays for long-distance passenger trains are not uncommon.
There were a couple of more minor hiccups, mostly due to the subfreezing weather. The drains on two bathroom sinks froze, causing the sinks to back up. And the weather also kept the water in the shower from warming to a usable temperature. But soon I would be at my hotel and a hot shower would be the first order of business.
BOTTOM LINE
All in all, it was a very comfortable journey. Amtrak crew were uniformly polite, professional and helpful, even with the unexpected delay. The accommodations were comfortable and the food surprisingly good. As Amtrak's Senior Public Relations Manager Marc Magliari told me, the food is intended to be part of the experience, not just something to sustain passengers for the next 500 miles.
If you’re inclined to take any of Amtrak’s long-distance trains, be it the Empire Builder, the Coast Starlight, or any of Amtrak's 14 long-distance routes, a Roomette is fine for solo travelers or perhaps one parent with a child who can shinny up into the upper berth. Two adults would certainly be more comfortable in a Bedroom, which has double the square footage of a Roomette along with a private toilet and shower, and families might find the Family Room better suited to their situation.
The Coach car, with its generous seats, could be fine for shorter trips, though meals are not included. Food can be purchased from the Cafe' car or brought on board by the passengers.
Regardless of the accommodations and timing you choose, I encourage you to explore train travel in the U.S. via Amtrak. I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
During this second day of the journey, we experienced several short delays to allow freight trains to pass in the opposite direction. Amtrak leases space from other rail companies for approximately 97 percent of its route miles and trains from the host company have priority. As a result, delays for long-distance passenger trains are not uncommon.
A much more rare event delayed us by several hours. A freight train had become disabled and was blocking the tracks that would allow us and another Amtrak train directly behind us to continue toward our destination. The freight train operator was eventually able to resolve the situation but we arrived at Chicago’s Union Station a full four hours late.
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| Second Amtrak train delayed by disabled freight train |
There were a couple of more minor hiccups, mostly due to the subfreezing weather. The drains on two bathroom sinks froze, causing the sinks to back up. And the weather also kept the water in the shower from warming to a usable temperature. But soon I would be at my hotel and a hot shower would be the first order of business.
BOTTOM LINE
All in all, it was a very comfortable journey. Amtrak crew were uniformly polite, professional and helpful, even with the unexpected delay. The accommodations were comfortable and the food surprisingly good. As Amtrak's Senior Public Relations Manager Marc Magliari told me, the food is intended to be part of the experience, not just something to sustain passengers for the next 500 miles.
If you’re inclined to take any of Amtrak’s long-distance trains, be it the Empire Builder, the Coast Starlight, or any of Amtrak's 14 long-distance routes, a Roomette is fine for solo travelers or perhaps one parent with a child who can shinny up into the upper berth. Two adults would certainly be more comfortable in a Bedroom, which has double the square footage of a Roomette along with a private toilet and shower, and families might find the Family Room better suited to their situation.
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| Amtrak Bedroom |
The Coach car, with its generous seats, could be fine for shorter trips, though meals are not included. Food can be purchased from the Cafe' car or brought on board by the passengers.
 |
| Generous Coach seats |
All classes of travel have power outlets nearby, but if you have more than one device (and who doesn't these days?), a power strip will allow you to charge more than one at a time.
If you're considering train travel for its scenic attributes, consider that one snow-covered field looks pretty much like the next so choosing a season other than winter might be a good call. Days are longer, crops have been planted or are in bloom, and the weather more suited to outside exploration during longer stops.
Regardless of the accommodations and timing you choose, I encourage you to explore train travel in the U.S. via Amtrak. I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
Visit my main page at TheTravelPro.us for more news, reviews, and personal observations on the world of upmarket travel.
Photos by Carl Dombek unless otherwise noted
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