Aboard the Empire Builder from Seattle to Chicago - Day One

By Carl Dombek

I am currently wending my way across the top of the U.S.A. on Amtrak’s Empire Builder, the train that connects the Emerald City and the Windy City in about 46 hours. It’s certainly slower than planes, but more relaxing than driving, and offers numerous other advantages over both of those forms of transportation.

Lobby of Seattle's King Street Station

My journey started out a short time ago when I boarded the Empire Builder at Seattle's historic King Street Station, which was designed by the same architectural firm that designed New York City's Grand Central Terminal. The bell tower on the Piazza San Marco in Venice, Italy served as the model for the station's clock tower. The King Street Station opened to the public in 1906 and was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1973.

The engine of our Empire Builder

When boarding started, helpful personnel directed us to the appropriate cars. All cars have numbers and each has its own type of accommodation. Coach cars have coach seats arranged two-by-two, so there are no center seats. The seats are generous -- think La-Z-Boy recliner rather than airplane seats -- and have plenty of leg room. Sleeping cars have sleeping compartments in a variety of configurations and a dedicated attendant in each car. Our man, Evan, helped passengers get settled and converted seats into bunks for sleeping. 

As a solo traveler, I chose a Roomette, a room that I measured at 6 feet 8 inches by 3 feet 2 inches. It had two comfortable chairs, a fold-out table, and a single power outlet for my devices. A tip I read prior to my departure advised that passengers with more than one device (and that's most of us) bring a power strip or multi-plug, which was very helpful. 

In addition to Roomettes, larger Bedrooms and even larger Family Rooms are available for those who want or need more space. Bedrooms and Family Rooms have their own bathroom and shower while passengers in Roomettes have shared bathrooms and a shower in each car. The private shower room includes a space for undressing and dressing, and for drying off with provided towels. Small bar soaps are also provided but shampoo and hair dryers are not. Those would be nice touches. 

Towels and dressing area (left) and shower stall

Booking a Roomette, Bedroom or Family Room includes passage for as many passengers as the room will accommodate in addition to meals in the dining car. Crunching the numbers compared to the price of coach seats and meals that must be purchased, travelers may find the cost of a private cabin to be quite competitive.

Family Room

Shortly after we left Seattle, dining car attendant Josh was around to note our preference for a 6 p.m. or 7 p.m. dinner seating. The first glass of wine was included, and I was able to bring an adult beverage back to my cabin for a nightcap.

In late January, the days are still short in the Pacific Northwest and, while the scenery was still beautiful to behold as the sun set within minutes of our departure, the growing twilight didn’t allow great photos.

Sunset as we neared Everett, Washington

A couple of my fellow travelers live in the plains of Montana, about a half hour from the nearest town. They told me the Empire Builder’s route does NOT go through the prettiest parts of Montana once it passes east of Glacier National Park. Still, it was obvious that it was going to be a remarkably scenic journey that you won't get at 35,000 feet!

About an hour after leaving Seattle, the train pulled out of Everett and headed toward Stevens Pass and the longest railroad tunnel in the U.S.: the Cascade Tunnel, a 7.8-mile single-track tunnel on the BNSF Railway's transcontinental route. Built in 1929 to replace an older, higher, and more dangerous tunnel, it significantly improved rail passage through the Cascade Mountains for both freight and Amtrak's Empire Builder.

At 7 o’clock, it was on to the dining car with its white tablecloths and excellent service. Seating is more or less communal; passengers are directed to the first open seat and may meet some new people.

Warm dinner rolls to start things out

Water and rolls were brought out quickly as we reviewed the menu. It wasn't extensive but did offer a nice variety for the few meals we would enjoy on board. I started with an appetizer of a mixed green salad with baby brie. A second appetizer choice was coconut crusted salmon.

Salad appetizer

Living in the Pacific Northwest we enjoy excellent salmon frequently, so I passed on the Atlantic salmon, yielded to my inner carnivore and had the flat iron steak .

Flat iron steak with vegetables and mashed potatoes

Other entree choices included pan roasted chicken breast and pasta primavera. After a dessert of white chocolate blueberry cobbler cheesecake, my feast was complete.

Dessert on Day One

Fed and watered, I headed to my Roomette where I climbed into the upper berth. It was cozy, and the gentle rocking of the train put me to sleep in no time!

It was still dark at 7 a.m. when I was awakened by the dining room attendant announcing that breakfast service had begun. I shook off the sleepies and headed to the dining car where offerings included a continental breakfast, Amtrak Signature French Toast, a three-egg omelet, scrambled eggs or a breakfast quesadilla. I chose the French Toast with a side of pork sausage.

French Toast (Photo courtesy Amtrak)

Thus fortified, I found my way to the observation car, also called a sightseer lounge, and its adjacent Café, which offers a limited menu of sandwiches and other nibbles, along with alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages.

Lunch offerings included a grilled chicken Caesar, an artisan grilled cheese sandwich, an Angus burger, patty melt, plant-based “Beyond” burger or savory chicken bowl as well as desserts and beverages. I chose the Caesar.

Chicken Caesar (Photo courtesy Amtrak)

The Empire Builder makes about 38 stops between Seattle and Chicago. Most stops are brief – approximately 2 to 5 minutes – though some are “fresh air” or “smoke” stops lasting 15 – 30 minutes, which also allow for crew changes, refueling or stretching. One, in the town of Havre, MT, happened as I was finishing lunch, so I missed the opportunity to experience Montana’s “7 degrees but at least it’s sunny,” as one of the train’s crew quipped.

Montana from the Empire Builder

I took a quick nap after lunch, then a trip to the observation car to take in more of Montana before returning to my cabin. The sun would be setting in less than two hours, and I will have reached the half-way point in my journey.

Or so I thought. More tomorrow.

Visit my main page at TheTravelPro.us for more news, reviews, and personal observations on the world of upmarket travel.

Photos by Carl Dombek unless otherwise noted

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