By Carl Dombek
During our recent family trip to Germany and Austria, we visited Christkindlmarkts in three different cities. Each city had multiple markts that were similar in many ways (glühwein and bratwurst were ubiquitous at all of them) but each markt also had its unique elements.
Another markt is located at the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower) in the Englisher Gardens. Food and wine are ever-present and this markt had shelters where one could sip glühwein, nibble some noshes, and be (somewhat) sheltered from the cold.
From central Munich, this markt is reached by bus.
Daughter Jennie was quite taken.
The city of Nuremberg stole my heart! Their market was full of charm (and crowds). The [St. Lorenz] cathedral was stunning.
We sat inside for a bit to warm up (the only city I was actually chilly in!) - and [son] Evan and I had the most beautiful conversation about God...who He is, what delights Him, what is worship. It reminded me of how our homeschooling and exploring days used to feel.
Nürnberg has the main markt, a kid’s markt, and a plaza of booths representing Nürnberg’s many “sister cities.” It is also home to a number of Gothic churches, each one more grand than the last.
Near the corner of this markt sits the Schöner Brunnen, which is German for Beautiful Fountain. This fountain was originally built in the 14th century and survived World War II while most of Nürnberg’s Hauptmarkt was reduced to rubble.
Nürnberg also features the Christkind, a young woman in a golden gown, blond hair and wings, who represents the Nürnberger Christkindlesmarkt for a two-year term. The Christkind opens the markt and acts as the city's Christmas ambassador. Candidates must be young women between 16 and 19 years of age, a Nürnberg native or long-term resident, must be at least 160 centimeters (5’3”) tall and not be afraid of heights, and willing to work in any weather.
On to Salzburg, Austria and the attractions it has to offer.
The first markt we encountered was adjacent to the city’s Mirabell Gardens, a beautiful spot that was also the setting for many scenes in The Sound of Music. Situated on the broad walkway between the garden wall and Mirabellplatz, this markt is long and narrow and features trinkets of all types, in addition to the food and glühwein.
Another markt graces the Aldstadt (Old Town), while others are set up in various small towns.
Jennie’s take on Austrian markts: Salzburg at night! To be frank, their market offerings weren't as charming or unique as Germany's. But the atmosphere and decor was beyond! The walk to the markets was a dream - lit canopies overhead and charming vignettes around every corner.
Just as each markt has its own character, each has its own mug which, we are told, changes a bit from year to year. Here are some examples:
To me, it seems culturally insensitive to travel to another country and not have some of the local currency at hand.
But the increasing globalization is overall a positive: the markts, especially in larger cities and towns, are now more accessible than ever. If you’ve ever had the desire and can travel on short notice, go now! Most markts are open until Christmas Eve and some even later. If not, do yourself a favor and start planning for 2026.
You will NOT be sorry!
Frohe weihnachten und ein glückliches neues jahr!
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| One of the many Wurststände. This one was in Nürnberg. |
We encountered our first markt as soon as we landed in Munich. The Munich airport has a modest markt between Terminals 1 and 2, both welcoming the newly arrived and providing a last opportunity to celebrate for those who are about to fly away.
Taking the S-Bahn into central Munich, our hotel was just four stops away from Marienplatz, the site of Munich’s biggest and busiest Christmas markt. For most of our five adult children and all six of our grandkids, It would be their first experience with these wonderlands.
Taking the S-Bahn into central Munich, our hotel was just four stops away from Marienplatz, the site of Munich’s biggest and busiest Christmas markt. For most of our five adult children and all six of our grandkids, It would be their first experience with these wonderlands.
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| Munich's main markt at night |
Our daughter Jennie put it this way:
At night, Munich comes aglow. I ADORED the Christmas markets after dark - pure magic and coziness. The ornaments sparkle, the Glühwein feels warmer, and the air smells like cinnamon and fried dough. Magic!!!!
In addition to the main markt, Munich has several others to explore. One, which is just a couple of blocks from the main square, focuses on Christmas villages. It is smaller and its specific focus means it’s less crazy, though still fun.
At night, Munich comes aglow. I ADORED the Christmas markets after dark - pure magic and coziness. The ornaments sparkle, the Glühwein feels warmer, and the air smells like cinnamon and fried dough. Magic!!!!
In addition to the main markt, Munich has several others to explore. One, which is just a couple of blocks from the main square, focuses on Christmas villages. It is smaller and its specific focus means it’s less crazy, though still fun.
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| Chinese Tower at the English Gardens |
Another markt is located at the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower) in the Englisher Gardens. Food and wine are ever-present and this markt had shelters where one could sip glühwein, nibble some noshes, and be (somewhat) sheltered from the cold.
 |
| Shelters at the Chinesischer Turm markt |
The main focus at this markt was on hand-made arts and crafts, like the manger scene below.
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| Manger at the Chinesischer Turm markt |
From central Munich, this markt is reached by bus.
If you plan to visit markts outside the city center and/or do some exploring, invest in a Munich Card from Turbopass.com. Munich Cards are good for riding the S-Bahn, U-Bahn, buses and tram and can be purchased for multiple days. There are also family passes available, which cover up to five adults or two adults and six kids.
Some of the most highly regarded markts in Germany are those in Nürnberg, which is just an hour train ride north of Munich. Alighting from the train, visitors walk past the Frauentour, past small shops and restaurants, and on to the main square.
Some of the most highly regarded markts in Germany are those in Nürnberg, which is just an hour train ride north of Munich. Alighting from the train, visitors walk past the Frauentour, past small shops and restaurants, and on to the main square.
The main markt is set up on the square in front of the Frauenkirche, a Gothic church built in the 14th century.
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| The Nürnberg markt in the shadow of the Frauenkirche |
Daughter Jennie was quite taken.
The city of Nuremberg stole my heart! Their market was full of charm (and crowds). The [St. Lorenz] cathedral was stunning.
We sat inside for a bit to warm up (the only city I was actually chilly in!) - and [son] Evan and I had the most beautiful conversation about God...who He is, what delights Him, what is worship. It reminded me of how our homeschooling and exploring days used to feel.
Nürnberg has the main markt, a kid’s markt, and a plaza of booths representing Nürnberg’s many “sister cities.” It is also home to a number of Gothic churches, each one more grand than the last.
Near the corner of this markt sits the Schöner Brunnen, which is German for Beautiful Fountain. This fountain was originally built in the 14th century and survived World War II while most of Nürnberg’s Hauptmarkt was reduced to rubble.
Just beyond the fountain is the back of the Sebalduskirche, a church with a large pipe organ and a notable place in musical history. Johann Pachelbel, who composed the famous Canon in D, was the church's organist from 1695 until his death in 1706.
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| Nürnberg's Christkind |
Nürnberg also features the Christkind, a young woman in a golden gown, blond hair and wings, who represents the Nürnberger Christkindlesmarkt for a two-year term. The Christkind opens the markt and acts as the city's Christmas ambassador. Candidates must be young women between 16 and 19 years of age, a Nürnberg native or long-term resident, must be at least 160 centimeters (5’3”) tall and not be afraid of heights, and willing to work in any weather.
On to Salzburg, Austria and the attractions it has to offer.
The first markt we encountered was adjacent to the city’s Mirabell Gardens, a beautiful spot that was also the setting for many scenes in The Sound of Music. Situated on the broad walkway between the garden wall and Mirabellplatz, this markt is long and narrow and features trinkets of all types, in addition to the food and glühwein.
 |
| Salzburg markt at night |
Another markt graces the Aldstadt (Old Town), while others are set up in various small towns.
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| Star on the way to the Aldstadt reads, "Advent star" |
The town of Mondsee has a small market in front of the Basilica St Michael church where Capt. von Trapp and Maria were married in The Sound of Music movie (though not in real life), but that markt is only open on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.
Jennie’s take on Austrian markts: Salzburg at night! To be frank, their market offerings weren't as charming or unique as Germany's. But the atmosphere and decor was beyond! The walk to the markets was a dream - lit canopies overhead and charming vignettes around every corner.
 |
| Walkway to Salzburg altstadt |
Just as each markt has its own character, each has its own mug which, we are told, changes a bit from year to year. Here are some examples:
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| Different markts have different mugs |
Over the years, we have seen the markts become much more multinational. During our first markt forays several years ago, the signage was almost exclusively in German. The sign indicating the deposit on the glühwein mug read, “Pfand €4.” This year, similar signs read, “Tassenpfand/Cup Deposit €5.” Inflation.
Also somewhat surprisingly, several of the stalls at the Nürnberg markt had signs indicating that they would accept U.S. dollars.
Also somewhat surprisingly, several of the stalls at the Nürnberg markt had signs indicating that they would accept U.S. dollars.
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| Sign on several booths in Nürnberg |
To me, it seems culturally insensitive to travel to another country and not have some of the local currency at hand.
But the increasing globalization is overall a positive: the markts, especially in larger cities and towns, are now more accessible than ever. If you’ve ever had the desire and can travel on short notice, go now! Most markts are open until Christmas Eve and some even later. If not, do yourself a favor and start planning for 2026.
You will NOT be sorry!
Frohe weihnachten und ein glückliches neues jahr!
Visit my main page at TheTravelPro.us for more news, reviews, and personal observations on the world of upmarket travel.
Photos by Carl Dombek
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